Our next stop after Skärhamn (previous post) was "just around the bay" from there according to the map, and supposedly only 15 min drive or so. But it took us quite a bit longer than that to find the place - I think more like 45 min! (The time stamps on my photos puzzled me for a bit when I checked just now - until I realised that while my phone is on "summer time", my separate camera is set on normal/winter time...)
Pilane is an Iron Age settlement and grave-field from 1-600 AD; but since 2007 the site is also used for outdoor sculpture exhibitions. As the sculpture park has become quite famous, I expected several road signs and posters to point out the way to it, but that was not the case.
Finally we found one road sign with the name (Pilane) + the usual sign for "sights worth seeing" pointing down a narrow dirt road. But we drove on for quite a while on that road without seeing anything that resembled the entrance to a famous sculpture park - or even an old grave field or the kind of rocks I'd seen on pictures... Eventually we felt we must either be on the wrong road or have missed it, so turned round (when an opportunity to do so turned up). And on our way back, then we saw it, because from that angle we could clearly see the main "signature" sculpture high up on a rock...
But down by the road, there was no sign at all to mark the entrance to a major tourist attraction (or even the grave field). And on this rainy day, not all that many cars were parked in the gravel area in front of the small wooden ticket booth at the farther end either...
Ah well. At least we had found the place at last! So we put on our wellies, grabbed our umbrellas and stepped out...
(16:03) |
▲The iron age grave-field▼
▲These might look like remains of big old trees, but are in fact (metal) sculptures by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei.▼
Below: Walking on uphill towards the gigantic head up on the top of the rocks. You can see that it's been raining so much that a brook has formed in the middle of the footpath. (Just while we were there, there was only light rain though.)
Anna by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa is a permanent sculpture on the site. (He also made one of my favourite sculptures in Borås: House of Knowledge, the big figure made up of letters that sits outside our Textile Fashion Center. It has been on my blog several times).
"I believe that the most important things in life are are always invisible; connections that embrace our body in its mysterious relationship with nature and community."
- Jaume Plensa
Anna is 14 m high and made from polyester resin and marble dust. The sculpture has been at Pilane since 2016. (Originally she was there on loan for three years, but she was built for the spot, and in 2019 they managed to buy her and keep her on permanently.)
That's me in front of Anna - holding on to my hat
in the wind, and wearing my new rubber boots... ;)
Panorama view |
Lots of heather grows in this landscape |
Left: (One of two) Towers by Ingrid Ogenstedt, Sweden
Right: Pool by Tony Cragg, Great Britain
"Sculpture is important. It's not just decoration.
It helps us to think about the world" - Tony Cragg
The "Tower" sculptures are made from reeds, but the shape was inspired by Himalaya stone Towers that are supposed to have lasted for several thousand years.
We did not go quite all the way to the farthest end of the park, so we may have missed a few sculptures (or at least did not get up close to some) but I think we got a good overall view of the area and the exhibition.
(16:43) |
Walking down the same path that we came up. (Way down below in the background to the right you can see Ai Weiwei's "Roots" sculptures again.)
We still had more than an hour to drive to reach the motel where we had booked rooms for the night, at Munkedal. From the island Tjörn (where we had visited Skärhamn and Pilane) we drove across the bigger island Orust without stopping. We avoided going back up on the E6 motorway by choosing the older parallel road ("old E6"), but that too involved several tricky roundabouts - and we actually drove right past our motel without seeing it, because it turned up a bit earlier than we expected. But after a while realised we must have gone too far, so again had to find a place to turn around and go back - and then we had no difficulty finding it...
Photo from the hotel website. Our rooms were on the ground floor in one of those buildings, and we could park the car just outside. (Reception and restaurant in a another building.)
Not sure when exactly we arrived, but by then we had a long day behind us. We did not feel like another restaurant meal in the evening, though, so after we had checked in and inspected our rooms, we drove a couple of km to a supermarket and just bought ourselves some sandwiches and fruit there. I had also brought a thermos of hot water + teabags from home which we hadn't got round to using earlier during the day. So we had a light supper in my room before we parted for the night. (There was a small table and two chairs.)
My room at the motel |
View from my room the next morning. (Enough distance from the roads nearby that we weren't too bothered by traffic noise during the night.)
18 comments:
I'm so thankful that you perservered and got to the monumental site, and took all those photos. Wei Wei has extended himself in the sculptures of downed trees. I've long been a fan of his work in ceramics.
So what is the story of Anna? You know what she made me think of? How amazing she is! Those Easter Island people. The wood sculptures look just like petrified trees! Your hotel room looks like one of our hospital rooms.
I want that Pool sculpture, the giant head is a bit too creepy for my taste, adn you know i love your letters one a lot.. the trees are amazing, they look so real. a wonderful trip.
Ginny, all I know about 'Anna' is that she is 14 m high and made from polyester resin and marble dust. The sculpture has been at Pilane since 2016. (Originally she was on loan for three years, but she was built for the spot, and became very popular, and in 2019 they managed to buy her to keep her on permanently.) (I just added this info to the post itself as well.) Whether she was named after or made to resemble some real person, I don't know.
Barbara, I don't think I'd heard of Ai Weiwei until now.
Sandra, the Pool sculpture is the right colour for you, I guess! ;)
A beautiful sculpture park especially the girl head statue there.
I really enjoyed this, Monica! With the rocks, much green and heather, this could be somewhere on the Yorkshire Moors.
Ai Weiwei is well known in Germany, and quite a controversial figure here. If I remember correctly, he has openly criticised Germany (the government? or some arts institution?) even though he was helped a lot in this country, whereas in his home country he is/was in constant danger of being imprisoned. Something along those lines - can't remember details but I am sure you can find all you want about this online, probably on wikipedia, too.
The roots sculptures look fantastic - there are dead trees in the Fountains Abbey / Studley Royal deer park that look just like that.
Your motel looks nice, too. Good idea to have a quiet meal in the the privacy of your room after the long and intense day.
wow just the history alone is very cool, we don't have anything like that here, but then again New Zealand is still a relatively new country.
My favourite is Pool - it adds a touch of colour to a rather bleak landscape. I know the weather wasn't good, sunshine would have made all the difference, but not something you can guarantee in a northern climate. The head is creepy and my first thought was Evita, maybe the hairstyle on the side view of the first photo?
An interesting, and unusual, place to visit.
'roentare', thanks for visiting :)
Meike, I don't recall reading about any connection of his to Germany when I was looking up Ai Weiwei the other day, so I suppose the Wiki article I read was not quite up to date.
The rocky landscape with mostly very shallow soil is typical of that part of the west coast (the province of Bohuslän).
As we did not plan this trip far ahead, finding hotel rooms was not all easy; but this motel was in a good location for us and had rooms available (and not "too" expensive). Only ranked 2½ stars, but the rooms were clean, had private shower/wc and the bed was comfortable; so definitely good enough for just one night :)
Amy, I'm sure NZ must have a lot of ancient sites connected to the Maori culture, though?
Carol, while we were there we actually speculated that seeing the big white head on a grey day may be just as interesting (as on a clear day with blue skies), as it now seemed to kind of appear straight out of the clouds...
Monica, I have re-read the (German) wikipedia article and found this:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ai_Weiwei#Kritik_an_Deutschland
Ai Weiwei did come to Berlin after he had been imprisoned in China. He also taught at a Berlin university and heavily criticised his (mostly German) students, who in turn said that he had hardly known them and they felt he had not been present enough as their professor. (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ai_Weiwei#Kritik)
Anyway, I don't know him personally, and some of what he says about my home country is certainly true - but it is always dangerous to generalise, especially when you do not speak the language of a place and therefore miss out on a lot of its "culture" and "feel"; you will hardly get to know the place that way, will you.
As for the 2 1/2 stars of your motel; stars are not necessarily a reflection of how "good" a hotel really is. A certain number of stars may depend, for instance, on the availabiltiy of a swimming pool - but if you don't need or want one and the hotel is clean, offers friendly and polite service and a comfortable bed, it would still be good for me.
Meike, I only glanced through the English Wiki article. What you mention reminds me of an English professor I had at University (early 1980s) who was appalled at our (his Swedish students) lack of insight into classic Greek and Roman mythology (often referred to in classic English poetry)... Not what he was used to from Oxford!! ;)
The countryside could easily be Scotland.
The wonderful figure 'Anna' reminded me of one that I say some years ago not far from Liverpool when visiting my Brother on The Wirral. It was entitled Helens "Dream" and is a 20 metre high sculpture located on the former site of Sutton Manor Colliery in St Helens. I've looked it up and, you guessed it, it was designed by Jaume Plensa.
I had never heard of Ai Weiwei. I'm not sure that his art does anything for me but he certainly seems controversial.
Graham, wow, that's an even bigger head sculpture then... And checking Plensa's Wiki article just now, I see that he seems to still be striving upwards: There's also one 24 m high in New Jersey (2021)!
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